E's Blog about all things Panerai

Now You can get Mario Paci Straps in Beverly Hills...

2009-02-16T13:41:00.002-06:00

Great news!

Now you can purchase TC and Mario Paci straps for your Panerai Watch in Beverly Hills, California.

Philippe's Watches on Dayton way, just 300 feet from the Panerai Boutique, has a huge selection of Mario Paci®, Giovanni e Figlio®, TC Vintage and TC Milano straps for Panerai. Philippe's Watches has been in Beverly Hills for 20 years and they are making it easy for you to visit and buy a Vintage watch strap for your Panerai after you've been to the Panerai Boutique.

Stay tuned as more exciting news is coming

Thank you

Elliot

Numerals on Panerai dials......

2008-09-14T23:50:00.001-05:00

Q: Why is the Arabic numeral “6” different from one Pam to another?

A: The simple/short answer, with only a few exceptions, is that the “open 6” is representative of Historical Pams [112, 111, et al], whereas the “closed 6” is representative of Contemporary Pams [104, 123 et al].

Furthermore, the Historicals are open, we presume, because of the early usage of the sandwich dial that had actual "cut outs" to allow the luminous material to be visible. The 113 and other white dials are one exception to the Historical/Contemporary rule—there is not historical precedence for a white dial, and therefore we presume they all use the “closed 6.”

I was asked today about the rising prices of Panerai watches...

2008-04-07T23:29:00.002-05:00

Here is the question: Did we do this to ourselves? By paying $30,000 for 5218-201A or $45,000. for Slytech? What about $25,000 for a 127? I think by buying and selling these pieces at such an inflated rate we ourselves have priced us (true Panerai collectors) right out of the market!

Here is my response: Good question. In part, yes we did but there is more to the equation. Think of the 5218 or the "A" series like oceanfront property....they aren't making it any more.....so the price continues to climb as more buyers search for a finite supply of magnificent watches.

But on the other hand, in my opinion, we have a double edge sword as far as Panerai Corp is concerned.

The age old rule is when you have a price increase, you will lose a certain percentage of clients. This will be made up in the short term by the higher prices as you continue to cultivate new business to buy the remaining inventory.

Now you ask...Where is the BUT!!!

But your product has to have a value or point of difference that makes it worth each and every price increase. How many brands have 200 years of watchmaking expertise? We know that Panerai, with its in-house movements is new to the movement business....unless these movements are made by another Richemont Company, which they are not saying....(OK disclaimer: 190=IWC...98=GP..you get my drift)

Do we need bouillon, I mean Tourbillion? Well, maybe you need bouillon to pay for Tourbillon.

Keep in mind that if the company gets too far away from what got them to this point, then people can delay the purchase for a year, 2 , 3, or more rather than in the not to distant past when having multiple pieces from the same year seemed so normal.

Thank you

Elliot

Panerai SIHH 2008 "Watch Lampoon and Harpooned"

2008-04-07T12:25:00.002-05:00

I saw the list of the new pieces that Panerai has shown at SIHH 2008 today...The "Cartierization" of Panerai otherwise known as the "Luminova Express" is moving at full speed.

I love Panerai watches. I love the look, the feel, the history, the total chronology....the entire package.

In seeing "the list" I am stunned by the inevitable. This "Cartierization" of Panerai has reached a new plateau (depth?).....allow me to explain my point....

PAM00297 Luminor GMT 44mm
brushed steel case
black dial...bracelet: brushed steel with polished surface between the links

Bracelet's are back.....for so long they were the "red-headed" step child that sat in the AD's case

PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
brushed steel case
polished bezel...black dial
bracelet: brushed steel with polished surface between the links

More bracelets.

PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
brushed steel case, polished bezel
black dial...adjustable buckle

The return of the 40mm Chrono.....

PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
case brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
P2004 - 8 days chrono
hand wound...brown sandwich dial

Monopulsante GMT.....a must for every Palombari!

PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
case ceramic and bezel
P2004 - 8 days chrono
hand wound...black sandwich dial

Ceramic PVD style in a Chrono.....this will be big after the 292 sells out.

PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
case brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT
hand wound...dial brown sandwich
historic titanium buckle

Tourbillon.....from ETA to Tourbillon...no baby steps here! Historic Titanium buckle? When did they first use Titanium on a Panerai?

PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
case brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT
hand wound...dial brown sandwich with pink gold ring
historic titanium buckle

Radiomir Tourbillon...it is like having 2 kids....you can't do something for one without doing it for the other....Luminor, play nice with your older brother Radiomir.

PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
case platinum bezel
P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT
hand wound...dial black sandwich with pink gold ring
radiomir white gold adjustable buckle

Platinum....I was getting worried that there was no Platinum piece but...WHEW!!! 48mm...nice and heavy..GMT tourbillon......I can see the line now stretching from Tourneau all around the corner to Wempe.

Just my opinions on the pieces from SIHH 2008. To me.....disappointing.....

Thank you

Elliot

Appreciation of Tritium once again takes the spotlight...

2008-03-26T00:17:00.001-06:00

While current series (F/G/H/I) prices are steady or lower, I see the Tritium pieces continuing to increase......

All of my information shows that the "A" series, 127 etc, Pre-Vendome and a few neo-vintage watches continue to rise at a rapid rate yet the LNIB have held steady or have gone down in price....

What do you think the reasons are?

I think the collector's are showing that the "Tritium" Panerai are a limited commodity that cannot be duplicated. I also think that as people get more and more into Panerai the appreciation (love thereof not $$)of Panerai watches and history continues to soar.

Yet, while people flock to these pieces, there may just be a bit of a "glut" of LNIB for the time being. The price increase will allow these pieces' prices (say that 3 time aloud) to steady at the risk of making a bit of an over supply of the new models at higher prices....

Of course, this is my opinion and I welcome yours.

Thank you

Elliot

Radiomir or Luminor.....tough choice.....

2008-03-06T12:42:00.002-06:00

That is a tough Choice....

Historically, the Radiomir were the first Panerai produced in 1938....

Today a great 1st Panerai is the 111 Luminor Marina or the 112 Base....both hand winds and truly historic.

Although, the Pam 287 Radiomir is probably the best looking "New" series Panerai in 5 years.......

Picture is from the Officine Panerai website.

Thank you

Elliot

A New Edition...Mario Paci XV "Santa Croce"

2008-02-29T00:18:00.003-06:00

The best just keep on getting better!

Mario Paci Straps®, already considered one of the finest straps in the world for Panerai Watches has come out with the latest edition. Mario Paci XV The "Santa Croce" is available now in 2 colors, Miele and T. Moro.

These straps are hand made in the Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli, the Original Strap maker for Panerai watches from 1938 to 1997, in Castelfiorentino, Italy.

The leather's used are very distinctive Tuscan hides know for their pliability and soft feel yet leave nothing to be desired in a Vintage strap. A sewn in Mario Paci New Natural Pre-V buckle is standard and adds to the vintage look.

Available at MarioPaci.com, Watch Obsession in the UK and Time Will Tell in Singapore in all the usual sizes. These straps are great.

Thank you

Elliot

Original Italian Military Pouch Straps...

2008-02-04T17:45:00.001-06:00

With so many people asking for Ammo pouch type straps we decided to do some research in Italy for these leathers.

Mario Paci, Fabrizio Ciampi and I looked from Arezzo to Pisa and from Monticatini to Siena and finally came up with some Original Italian Military Pouch leathers.

The issue we found came in 2 colors: Rossiccio and Mandorla.

And now we are pleased to announce Italian Military Pouch Leather straps for your Panerai Watch. Hand made in Castelfiorentino, Italy by the Original Strapmakers for Panerai from 1938 to 1997 Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli.

We are making these available from our inventory in all sizes for immediate delivery or custom made in 12 Business days.

Visit us at www.tcstraps.com

Thank you

Elliot

Has Panerai has deliberately veered away from its history...

2008-02-02T22:30:00.000-06:00

...and headed towards what I have called in the past the "Cartierization" of the brand?

Is this bad?.....

Well, not necessarily. For a long while, Panerai buyers either bought and then got into the history OR got into the history and the purchased their Panerai. After this first step, with the help of Panerai Enthusiast forums, all of us dived right in to the Brand, History, lessons and nuances of these prized watches. The hunger for information led to so many of the Negretti books, the Zei books and much of the information in the reference sections of Viapaneristi.com.

People like Mario Paci and Fabrizio Ciampi lived this history and were able to pass down this wonderful knowledge. With the changes in the marketing of the brand, after Richmont established it presence as the new owner, Panerai went after the Macro instead of the Micro and this is why we have seen so many new Panerai Enthusiasts...as well as seeing the brand go more "upscale" in pricing but more available in supply. As the prices increase with very little change in the production, they are now on par with so many other brands. Do they have too many models? Well, I for one have trouble keeping up with all the new model numbers but that is my problem and not the Company's headache. When I see a Pam 183, 190 (yes, I know about the movement), 232, 287, 210 and 268 there can be confusion but each one has a subtle difference whether it is date or Base, Power Reserve or GMT etc, etc.

So while there are so many models compared to what we had just a few years ago, it is quite obvious that the "New to Panerai Enthusiast" has found the beauty of this watch and brand appealing and has broadened the scope to more corners of the earth than ever before. Panerai Watches are still quite unique, still have their history, still enable you to change the look with so many strap choices readily available, 350 Authorized Dealers spread worldwide...it's a beautiful thing. Now we have the Vintage, Pre-Vendome, "A" "B" watches for one segment of the audience and the New Models with variations on a theme (sorry Eric Satie)to quench the thirst of those coming to the brand in 2008.

Thank you

Elliot

How many "New to Panerai" folks have been experimenting with straps?

2008-01-04T23:39:00.000-06:00

With all the new Panerai watches...so many Radiomir's....in 44mm, 45mm and 47mm...do you find that you have been looking for straps to either dress up the watch or lean more towards Historical and vintage straps?

Also, how many of you find that you have started to wear your straps with a longer length so that you are sure to use both keepers and possibly see the "tail" when you look straight on at your watch dial?

I am seeing so many people switching around from Kevlar to alligator...from Alligator to Vintage...from OEM length to their actual needed length....

How many are diehard Deployant people and how many have made the switch to a sewn in buckle?

We hear so many people who have Deployants but yet they say Deployants are uncomfortable. Also, the same folks have difficulty getting replacements straps at their Authorized Dealer and they find the selection quite limited in the aftermarket arena.

This will be interesting to see how the trend is going relative to the newer Contemporary Panerai Models. Once people understand the History of Panerai I think we will see more and more switching to the Vintage styles.

Thank you.

Elliot

True History of Panerai in a strap........

2007-12-22T22:09:00.000-06:00

Mario Paci Special Edition...1938 "Productione Originale"

You can't find a strap for Panerai watches that is any more Historic than this Special Edition from Mario Paci.....why?

1. Leather from the 1930's originally used on straps for Panerai Watches

2. Made in the same Factory as the OEM straps for Panerai from 1938 to 1997

3. The same leathers used on the Vintage watches such as the ORIGINAL California dial watches

4. Made is the same style as the Straps in 1938 with oversized keepers, open buckle slots and more

5. GPF-MOD Flat buckle reproduced to look like the Originals

6. Certificate of Origin signed personally by Mario Paci, former Chief Engineer of Panerai, compare the signature to the libretto's of the Pre-V watches.

7. A true collector's piece of the wonderful history of Panerai

A Mario Paci strap is simple the best. Quality, workmanship and History like no other.

Thank you

Elliot

Why do so many of us like handwind Panerai....

2007-11-29T21:49:00.000-06:00

....because that is what we first learned about Panerai and the history of the brand.

We think back to the Marina Militaire, Dino Zei, Mario Paci, Mrs. Panerai, Decima Mas, La Spezia, and so many other historical names and places that we learned about when we got into the brand.

I believe that Panerai as a company has decided to get away from the remarkable history during the "Cartierization" of selling a watch that can be thought of as more of a trend than a historical diving watch.....or in the case of the Mare Nostrum, officer's watch.

It is due to this "Cartierization" that the newer Contemporary models have become the models of choice TODAY but, as long as the flame stays alive, many people will learn to understand what got us to this point in time and they will take a hard look at the "timeless" pieces of the Historical Panerai Brand.

Elliot
www.tcstraps.com

1.877.34.WATCH

Euro's, Dollars and Panerai......

2007-11-09T22:40:00.000-06:00

Every day we see the Euro going up and the Dollar going down.

As I write this the USD is $1.46 for each Euro. An all time high (err low?) We know that European companies base their revenue on their currency but to raise prices to lessen the shortfall also reduces the amount of product sold.

Mercedes has absorbed the price differential to a certain degree. Companies like Nestle, Volkswagen, Siemens, Ing and so many more have had a rough 2006/7. They may find revenue has gone up but costs have increased more rapidly.

Luxury goods conglomerates like Richmont, Louis Vuitton Moet Hennesey can raise prices only so much without affecting the amount of goods they can move. Their production machines may be able to turn out more product than the market place can absorb.

Funneling on down to the watch market that we Enthusiasts enjoy every day changes the paradigm for so many as their watches become out of reach "OOR" with each and every price increase. Science says that water finds its own level. What axiom fit the watch market if the economy of many nations slows down and discretionary income decreases dramatically?

Let's hope that every thing settles down. That the housing market and mortgage problems turn around and we again find ourselves pursuing the next purchase of our beloved watches.

Panerai Enthusiasts.....the New Breed!

2007-09-07T17:41:00.000-05:00

It is good to see so many new "faces" enjoying the Wonderful World of Panerai watches.

I remember back when I received my first Panerai and was looking forward to all the straps and accessories: Panerai Watch Box, Ships, Maile Subs, Watch Straps, Buckles. Each day was a new adventure as to what I would learn and the people I would meet.

It took a short while to learn the history of the brand and wondered why it took so long to catch on to this Panerai Watch Lifestyle. There were so many "Pioneers" that got in early and wore Pre-Vendome Panerai and even some that bought the A/B series after Richmont took over the brand.

One of my biggest fears is that with all the Contemporary models that have hit over the past couple of years the "New Faces" will not invest the time to learn about what brought all the Panerai Enthusiasts up to this point in time deep in History dating back to 1860.

One thing I have seen is the thirst for straps as people see how much fun it can be to change the look of a watch or the look of an outfit just by changing the strap on their Panerai. Very few watches lend themselves to the ease of changing straps as well as the assortment of leathers available to Dress Up or Dress Down each individual's Panerai.

I guess every hobby has its "Passages" (sorry for that Gail Sheehy) and I see us going through one right now as the cycle continues for one group and just begins for another.

Regards

Elliot

The Best Choice for Watch Straps…..Time Connection…

2007-07-16T22:10:00.000-05:00

Of course, you have a choice when is comes to buying watch straps for your Panerai and other fine watches.

Here are some very good reasons why Time Connection should be your first and last stop when you accessorize your watch.

Our straps are MADE IN ITALY at the Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli di Ciampi, the Original OEM Strap Maker for Panerai from 1938 to 1997.

TC is Factory Direct. We make the straps in our factory and do not act as a middleman placing orders every now and again.
Our straps are shipped from Austin, Texas and priced in U.S. dollars. With the Euro at $1.375 why pay the conversion rate and then the shipping in Euro’s for straps that get outsourced by any unknown strap makers.

We have held the line on pricing…why?

We produce so many for Retail and for Manufacturers
It helps to be a partner in the factory
Because we can

You can only buy brand new Mario Paci, Giovanni e Figlio, Toscana Straps, Officine Firenze by Mario Paci straps from Time Connection or in the UK, from Watch Obsession.

Get the best…the best Leather, the best Construction, the best Inventory and the best Price.

Thank you

Elliot

The Closest thing to FACTORY DIRECT.....TC Straps......

2007-07-13T20:32:00.000-05:00

What are you buying today when you order a strap?

Yes, there are a few Individual strap makers that put out a few straps a day/week and produce some nice straps.

But what about straps for all size wrists and all size watches? Let's look at the facts:

How many people can say... Hand Made in Italy?
Our Straps are made by the ORIGINAL OEM Strap Maker for Panerai from 1938 to 1997
We make the starps we sell and do not act as a "Middle Man/Woman." Factory direct means you can only buy them new from Time Connection or in the UK from Watch Obsession.
No need to buy from strap sellers who do not own factories and just place orders once a month

Also, think about it. Buying straps from Europe with the Euro at $1.38, a $200 Euro strap costs you $278 plus shipping, in Euros' and the straps have no Pedigree. The sellers are paying for the Straps in Euros' and drive their costs up.

At Time Connection, we are the factory and our prices have remained the same regardless of where the Euro has climbed to. Why have we held the line?

We produce so many straps for retail and for Manufacturers
I guess it help to have an interest in a factory
Because we can!

The Choice is yours. Straps that have a true background as they are made by Mario Paci and Fabrizio Ciampi. Mr. Paci was Chief Engineer of Panerai from 1983 to 1997. Fabrizio Ciampi has been in the strap business since he was knee hight to his uncle Mr. Brelli.

We are straps. That is all we do. Why settle for the same old thing or overpriced goods due to Dollar fluctuations. Why not buy straps for Panerai that are Contemporary Legends.

Elliot

Why you can't just get ANY leather strap for your Panerai watch...

2007-06-29T10:24:00.000-05:00

With so many straps to choose from in the marketplace, how do you know that the strap you are buying is what it is stamped on the back?

I recently saw some made in Atlantis in France but they were stamped Italy. Some of the straps made in China use either leather from China or some use leather from Italy. But what about the workmanship of these straps?

My point is that when you spend good money for a strap for your Panerai you should know what to look for so you get what you pay for.

Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather....what it is.....

Vegetable tanned leather is leather which has been treated exclusively with tannic extracts according to a slow-tanning procedure that leaves the natural features of the leather intact.

The result is leather that is warm, soft and extremely durable, perfect for the production of quality leather straps. Its exceptional qualities actually improve with time and this makes vegetable-tanned leather the ideal material for High Quality items that need to last beyond seasonal fashion trends.

It is also perfect for many casual-looking accessories in that it is strong and resistant and reminiscent of the elegance of those used by the beginning of the century (1900 not 2000).

The creativity of the vegetable-tanned hide is evident as it produces leather in its purist form. Therefore, the
creation of the quality Italian made leather watch strap, has the "tactile" qualities and the warm nuances that ONLY vegetable-tanned leather can give. Sometimes replicated but never duplicated...real leather from Italy.

Thank you

Elliot

FAQ's...All you wanted to know about Panerai but didn't know where to ask!!!!!

2007-06-07T21:51:00.000-05:00

OFFICINE PANERAI FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS--

1. Q: What is a C.O.S.C. Certificate?

A: "The C.O.S.C. Certificate is a certificate of accuracy issued by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (C.O.S.C.) to a movement which is certified as a chronometer (that is, a particularly accurate watch) by exceeding the standards set by the NIHS (Normes de l'Industrie Horlogere Suisse--Standards of the Swiss Watch Industry). To receive a chronometer certificate the movement udnergoes 15 days of tests to measure the accuracy and consistency of its timekeeping in various positions and conditions of use and at different temperatures. Only movements recording a variation of less than 10 seconds a day receive official certification from C.O.S.C." [from OP catalog]
Please see
http://www.fhs.ch/english and http://www.ozdoba.net/swisswatch/watchmain.html for more specifics.

2. Q: What is a “Chronometer?”

A: A chronometer is a timepiece/watch that has been “certified” by the COSC, a company that tests the uncased movements to make sure that the rate falls within their standards. The specifications for COSC are -4/+6 seconds/per day. This does, indeed, add up to a 10 second spectrum, but if it gained 10 seconds/per day, it would be out of COSC tolerance. Please see
http://www.fhs.ch/english and http://www.ozdoba.net/swisswatch/watchmain.html for more specifics.

3. Q: What is a “Chronograph?”

A: A chronograph is a complication used for measuring elapsed time, usually broken into 3 segments or dials—hours, minutes, seconds, tenths of a second. See F-series PAMs 162, 72, 74, 122, and 121.

4. Q: What are the differences between automatic movements and manual wind?

A: Automatic movements work with a rotor that oscillates as you move your arm/hand. This oscillation winds the watch and continues to give it power to tick. A manual watch is powered by having the springs wound every several days. For a Panera, the power reserve [the stored/wound power] is about 45 or 56 hours depending on the model year.

5. Q: What is a complication?

A: A complication is the term used to denote an added function beyond the original hours/minutes/seconds purpose of a watch. In essence, every feature you add to the movement makes the watch more “complicated” to construct, hence the term “complication.” The most basic complication could be a date feature on a watch, whereas a "grande complication," usually entails some combination of: split second chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar.

Some examples of complications in Panerai are the PAM 104, with both small seconds dial and the date window; a PAM 123, with small seconds dial, date window, and power reserve meter; a PAM 162 with its chronograph functions, as well as date and date adjuster mechanism—to name just a few.

6. Q: Why do I see Panerais referred to as a 112F, or 29A?

A: Each year of production/series has been given a letter to be easily identifiable, especially with models that were only made for a short time and have been since discontinued. It is important to note that even though a particular model is an F, for instance, the distribution of all of the units of that model may span several years. Someone could still have a BNIB F series watch in 2004/2005.

A=1998
B=1999
C=2000
D=2001
E=2002
F=2003

7. Q: What is meant by "Millesimation" and what's its importance to the Panerai brand?

A: Millesimation is the production numbers of Panerai watches within each year. These numbers have increased steadily with the popularity of the brand, but it should be noted that current (2003) levels of 35,000 watches per year is still miniscule compared to giants such as Rolex which produce over 800,000/year. Having low millesimation numbers is one of the contributing factors to the exclusive nature of the Panerai brand and is one of the influencing factors on the appreciating value of some pieces..

8. Q: What is a "calibre," and what's its importance or relevance to the Panerai movements?

A: A calibre is the name given to a specific movement used to power the watch. Many Panerai models use the same calibre, and the calibre name is often an arbitrary number imposed by Panerai. For example, a Calibre OP III is really a modified Valjoux 7750.

9. Q: What is the significance of the "AISI 316L" steel reference?

A:

10. Q: Is corundum the same as a "sapphire crystal?"

A: Yes.

11. Q: What is the significance of the Panerai Luminor Power Reserve as a horological complication?

A:

12. Q: In which direction should one wind a Panerai manual wind watch? An automatic movement?

A: Until you feel a resistance from your manual wind. An auto cannot be overwound.

13. Q: What is meant by a Destro, and what is its historical significance?

A: The “destro” is a left handed watch--that is, it is designed to be worn on the right hand (crown protector on the left side of the case instead of the right). "Right" is Destra / Destro in Italian. Some early Panerai watches were designed this way as it was customary for military divers to wear a compass (huge) on their left hand and their Panerai on their right hand. Destros have become a bit of a 'cult' collectors item among Panerai afficienados as they are relatively rare and quite distinctive!

The following are the model numbers and series that have been produced thus far:

PAM 22 A-D
PAM 26 A-B
PAM 56 C-D
PAM 115 E-F
PAM 117 E
PAM 123 E-F

14. Q: What are some of the best ways to change straps & buckles without scratching the case?

A: First of all--just be careful. Treat it like it cost you more than $3000+! Work slowly and keep the screwdriver in place by using your left thumb and index finger while turning the shaft of the driver with your right hand.

You can also place transparent tape over the screw holes, puncture the tape w/ the screwdriver head, and use as above.

15. Q: What's the best way to polish minor scratches on the case or buckle of a Panerai?

A: The “Cape Cod” Cloth is great for polished metal Panerai cases, but because the method of action is to remove small amounts of metal from around the offending area,it is not suggested that you do this weekly. It is also best used on a slight or "swirly" scratch mark. For a deep dent or gauge, send it back to Panerai HQ and let them do it right.

The cloth should only be used on polished stainless steel surfaces. It should not be used on brushed stainless steel or on titanium surfaces.

For titanium use an art eraser, or a VERY fine nail file. We’ve also had positive reports from people who have used Scotch Brite pads to refinish the Ti surface.

16. Q: What is the difference between a "tang/pin" buckle and the "deployant/folding clasp" buckle?

A: The Tang buckle is similar to a traditional men's belt buckle. It will often leave a crease in the strap, but it is closer to the original style of buckle used by the members of the Iitalian Navy.

The deployant, or folding clasp, will not leave as much of a mark in the strap and it less original. It also has a slight tendency to make the strap fit a bit loose, and so if you are struggling to keep your Panerai on in the first place either skip the deployant or hit the gym.

If you use the OEM (Panerai) deployant, you'll need to buy an OEM strap that's designed for use with the deployant (regular OEM straps as well as all of the aftermarket straps (TC, Dirks, Dons, ABP, etc) are too thick to fit the buckle). The OEM deployant straps are thinner at the buckle end to accomadate the deployant.

17. Q: How many notches are there in the crown, i.e. how to set the date, how to set the time?

A: If you can't read instructions, don't buy a $3000 watch. In all seriousness, the instructions for this will be in the manual, but most often a model with a date will be set by pulling the crown out to the first position (pull away from the case by one click) and the time will be set in the second position. Other features may vary, so do read the manual.

18. Q: Explain the waterproof aspects of the folding lever as part of the trademarked crown protector?

A: When the crown lever is depressed, the gaskets are compressed flush with the crown tubes. Keep in mind that while this was new technology in 1950, there have been many ways since then to waterproof a watch. This is currently more of a stylistic feature than a functional one, despite how well the locking lever does work.

19. Q: What is meant by the phrase Pre-Vendome?

A:

20. Q: What is the Vedome group, or Richmont?

A:

21. Q: Is the original warranty transferable?

A: Yes, the warranty is transferable. The warranty travels with the watch as long as it is in effect.

22. Q: What is the phone number of Panerai NY service center?

A: Panerai New York: (800) 628-8119.

Q: If I have to ship my watch to Panerai NY for servicing, how should I ship it, and should I include my warranty card with the watch?

A: If you have to ship your watch to Panerai NY, use USPS Registered (it's cheaper, insurance is included, and the custody chain is traceable); include a copy of the warranty; ship only the watch, not the original boxes (you might want to remove the strap as well). Include a cover letter that describes the watch in detail (the OP, BB and xxxx/XXXX numbers). The letter should describe the work that needs to be done. Be sure to include your contact information.

Ship to:
PISC
111 8th Ave, Suite 500
NY, NY 10011

Expect at least 7-10 work days for a written reply from Panerai. The reply will include an estimate for the work (assuming it's not covered under warranty), and a place to indicate whether you accept the estimate. If you do, and if a payment is required, fill in the space for credit card information and return the letter to Panerai. Obviously, this will take another 3 or 4 days. Approximate total time for this "acceptance" process can be two weeks. You can speed this up by calling the number listed above, selecting Option #3, and doing all of this over the phone. It'll save at least a week in the repair process.

23. Q: How much does it cost to replace a crystal on a PAM?

A: As of January 04, the cost of the crystal itself is $95, plus $400 service fee for installation and a complete servicing.

24. Q: What does OP stand for?

A: Officine Panerai

25. Q: How can I tell if my Panerai is genuine?

A:

26. Q: What causes the mysterious intermittent movement that occurs in my PAM, which has an automatic movement?

A: Most automatic Panerai watches use a Valjoux 7750 as the base movement. Although this movement is certainly robust and well suited to the purpose of filling out a huge hunk o' Panerai, it also carries with it a characteristic "wobble." There is nothing wrong with the watch, you are simply feeling the easily spun rotor go around. Many enjoy this “mystery movement,” as it reminds one that the watch is “alive” to some extent.

A: Yes, this is normal; it is a “service gap” used to remove the bezel with a tool. Note to self: don't try this at home!

27. Q: What is the correct pronunciation of Officine Panerai?

A: In italian, every letter is pronounced, so it would be something akin to "Oaf-Fi-Chi-Nay Pan-Er-Eye."

28. Q: Where does the term "panerisiti" come from?

A: The story goes that those that are passionate about ferrais are "ferraristi," so the logic took and now you have "panerisiti," those PASSIONATE [and then some] about all things Panerai.

29.Q: If all watches made by OP are Panerais, why are the individual reference numbers for Panerais called "PAMs?"

A: PAM stands for PAnerai Model.

30. Q: Can I fit a Panerai OEM ss/Ti bracelet to a model that originally takes a leather strap?

A: Yes, with some modification—you’ll need to purchase an “Avid” adapter to modify the linkage between the OEM case and the OEM bracelet.

31. Q: Who is Giampiero Bodino?

A: Mr. Bodino is a well-known designer from Milan who many claim is responsible for updating the look of Panerai and creating new models for the line. Mr. Bodino was the art director for OP. He is presently still working for the Richmont Group.

32. Q: What does Radiomir mean?

A: The Radiomir name came from the anti-aircraft gunner’s gauge that was mounted on the artillery piece that help sighting at night. Apparently, radiomirIt was a particular compound that product high luminosity for night fighting. The compound contsisted of phosphorescent zinc, sulphide, radium, bromide, and mesothorium.

33. Q: How do you synchronize your Panerai to atomic time--down to the seconds?

A: Wait until the watch is almost wound down, then pull the crown out and put a little back pressure (turn the crown counter-clockwise slightly), the second hand should stop. Hold it there until you've got it synched with the atomic clock.

34. Q: Where/how can I find an original Pre-V buckle?

A: As far as the buckle goes, you have a few options actually:

To get an OEM (as in it says Panerai and Panerai actually commissioned it) pre-V buckle, you'll have to find someone who's selling a Pre-V strap with a sewn-in buckle (they weren't removable at that point), or Panerai has just re-issued as the “vintage” strap calf straps with a Pre-V style buckle sewn in. As of January 2004, these have yet to hit authorized retailers en masse.

You could also buy a Dirks strap that will give you the same sewn-in look and feel as an original OEM Pre-V. The early Dirks featured the OP stamping.... you may be able to score one of this by posting a WTB on the Trading Forum. More recent Dirk's are sans the OP logo and instead are 'numbered'. When Panerai decided to resurrect the OP logo (pen/pusher tool and 195), Dirk was asked to discontinue the use of the OP logo on his buckles.

TimeConnection.biz also sells a Pre-V style buckle with screw in feature so it can be used w/ any strap. And lastly, you should also take a look at the DinoZei—the look here is very similar to the Pre-V look, as well they are historically significant to the Panerai “Pre-V” experience. The whole story of Dino Zei is well documented on www.meyersfinejewelry.com.

35. Q: Which Panerai models have an OP Logo on their casebacks?

A: All Pre-Vendome models have the OP Logo on the caseback, except for the regular “Slytech” models. Here is a complete listing:

5218-201/A SS Luminor
5218-202/A PVD Milatre Marina
5218-203/A PVD Luminor Marina
5218-201/A SlyTech Submersible prototype
5218-209 SS Luminor
5218-210 PVD Marina
5218-301/A Mare Nostrum

36. Q: Why is the Arabic numeral “6” different from one Pam to another?

A: The simple/short answer, with only a few exceptions, is that the “open 6” is representative of Historical Pams [112, 111, et al], whereas the “closed 6” is representative of Contemporary Pams [104, 123 et al].

Furthermore, the Historicals are open we presume because of the early usage of the sandwich dial that had actual cut outs to allow the luminous material to be visible. The 113 and other white dials are one exception to the Historical/Contemporary rule—there is not historical precedence for a white dial, and therefore we presume they all use the “closed 6.”

The Officine Panerai Logo..the True meaning by Eng. Mario Paci

2007-06-02T00:37:00.000-05:00

The Logo OP represents the stylised beginning letters O and P of Officine Panerai name, but not only.

Do you know which is the meaning of the two arrows, one towards up and one toward down? It's very simple and intuitive. Officine Panerai, since the origins and up today, has been always specialist in manufacturing underwater products and landing aid systems.

The firsts (wrist watches, compasses, depth-meters, tank level probes, mechanical timers for underwater mines and many others) were used under the sea.

The seconds (Deck landing systems, Helipad lighting systems, Portable landing systems) were used on surface, for those arriving from the sky.

Here is explained the meaning of the two arrows: the one toward down shows the underwater products, the one toward up shows the products for who arrives from the sky.

Click here (Postcard in a .pdf format, 96.4 kb)

The OP Logo was born at the beginning of years 1980, designed by an Architectural Office of Florence and, in the first drafts, had a rounded form; Eng. Zei (CEO of Officine Panerai since 1972 until 1999) did not like this Logo, so as it was designed. Then, Eng. Dino Zei, together with the Officine Panerai Technical Department responsible, had the idea for this definitive version (here described) adding the two stylised arrows.

The OP Logo has been sold to Cartier, at that time Vendome group on 1997, with the watches- torches-compasses and depth-gauges brand, the patents, the original drawings and all the watches store. Since 1997 the old Officine Panerai changed its name into Panerai Sistemi SpA. On 1999 the Panerai Sistemi has been sold to Calzoni of Bologna, that absorbed all its industrial and productive activities. At present (2004) Panerai Sistemi is a brand of Calzoni Srl, utilized for all ex-Panerai products.

Cartier, now Richemont group, has never utilized the OP Logo until the end of the 2003 when it appears on the special edition for collectors of the Luminor Marina 44mm (PAM 195), on the dial and on the case-back and, subsequently, on the crowns of the new Radiomir 45mm 8 Days (PAM 190 and 197) and Black Seal (PAM 183) models, more another limited edition of the Luminor and L. Marina models, alls introduced during the 2004.

By Eng. Mario Paci

There has been some resistance to bracelet models for a few reasons....

2007-05-30T19:47:00.000-05:00

Back in 2001-2002 the bracelets used to "Pop" open as they did not have the push button openers. The 40mm worked fine as they are a single clasp but the double Butterfly was a nightmare.

Then, Panerai fixed the problem and had just a few bracelet models as some people could convert from let's say, Rolex, to a larger sized watch without having to give up their bracelets....and People who had already found the Panerai "Underground" could add a bracelet for diversity.

Now, enter the new Contemporary market where Panerai can take an Existing model like the Pam 88...put a bracelet on it....and Voila' Pam 161....

So, the Panerai line easily expands to "something for everyone"....

E

Diversity of opinions on Panerai's Direction....

2007-05-22T23:52:00.000-05:00

After the recent showing at SIHH, it appears that so many of the "Old Guard" are a bit uneasy about the direction of Panerai and the watch line.

Looks like Panerai corporate is headed towards new and newer rather than working on the Original Concept that brought them such recognition.

When I see posts like:

It makes me appreciate my older series better
The new dials are so busy
So many bracelets

Well, you get the idea. With production up 50% over the past 5 years but more and more pieces sitting at the authorized dealers, the boutiques are doing well with 100% retention and the AD's are sitting with the "hard to sell" watches.

I feel that this can go on for another year or so but then it comes time to re-invent the brand. Are they really in-house movements that will drive Panerai? Is the Marina Militaire long gone and the race track is the fast track with Ferrari?

So many questions and it is all matter of time!

Elliot

I guess Dirk thinks we make the best Straps...

2007-04-09T22:35:00.000-05:00

It must be true....Dirk must feel that we make the Best Straps in the World for Panerai Watches......

Why do I say this?

Three weeks ago Dirk Grandry, yes that Dirk, called my partner, Fabrizio Ciampi at the Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli di Ciampi, to ask if he/we would be willing to produce straps for Dirk or as they are commonly known, Dirk Straps.

Yes, Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli di Ciampi was the original strap maker for Panerai from 1938 to 1997.

Fabrizio mentioned to Dirk that the straps could not be made without the consent of Elliot Lazarus of TC. Fabrizio then called me to let me know of this call and I wrote an e-mail the next day to Dirk.

Subject: Straps made by Fabrizio

From: Elliot Lazarus [elliot@tcstraps.com]

To: Dirk. Grandry@Pandora. Be (dirk.grandry@pandora.be)

Good morning Dirk,

I hope you are well.

Fabrizio has informed me about your desire to have straps made at the Cuoierie Mecchaniche Brelli di Ciampi of which, as you may know, I am partnered with Fabrizio.

I am sure that we can work out an agreement to produce your straps. My thoughts are simple. Make for you whatever straps you need and patch up any and all lingering "challenges" that face you and I from the past.

You know the quality of the work done at this factory. In our new facilities, we are able to produce straps in a more timely manner while constantly working on increasing the standards that set us apart. We have some new waterproofing methods that will allow the process to work while not affecting the look and feel of the strap.

The competition nowadays is tough. New strap sellers show up everyday. We all need quality that sets us apart from the rest and be able to deliver the goods in a timely manner.

All orders would have to come to my office here in the U.S. for processing. We can use any hide or buckle (that we have rights to use) you desire. And obviously, we can stamp or not stamp, per your instructions, what needs to be written on the back of the straps....as I am sure you would not want to use the same stamping that I am using.

So, Dirk, please let me know your thoughts. I hope you have a good time in Firenze and let me know how I can help you.

Regards

Elliot

Well, I have not heard back from Dirk at all. Is he thinking it over? Or, did he think that he could go straight to the factory that I am a partner and try to produce goods without me knowing about it?

Honestly, I think this is funny. The "Revered" Dirk , as he has been called by so many of the Paneristi wanted to have his straps for Panerai produced at the factory of which I am a partner. You have to admit that it really is a peculiar turn of events knowing what we do about the Dirk straps for Panerai Watches new, neo-vintage and Pre-Vendome and the things that have been said....

"You've gotta luv it!"

E

It's that Time of year again...SIHH/Basel

2007-04-08T21:49:00.000-05:00

For a Panerai watch enthusiast, you have to love this time of year.

The Basel and SIHH shows in Switzerland where we see the presentation of all the new pieces...well, it's just like Fashion Week in Milan except it is for watches.

Three weeks ago Panerai showed all the new movements at their presentation in Firenze. What have they saved for the watchshows this year? Are we going to see the much touted Ceramic pieces? We had the year of the Panerai Radiomir and the year of the Panerai Submersible....could it be time for:

The year of the Vintage
The year of the Panerai PVD
The year of the bracelet
The year that the OP Panerai logo comes back
All of the above
None of the above

Your guess is as good as mine. It is always exciting; and the speculating will soon be over.

Will your wish of a new Panerai model that you would love to see come true in 2007?

Thank you

A very exciting week........

2007-03-03T18:38:00.000-06:00

This is going to be a very exciting week!

Let's see, Where do we start? The New Mario Paci XIII the "3646" for Panerai Watches are here in 3 amazing colors.

Take a cruise back in time to a golden age of Vintage Panerai watches and enjoy the feel and look of leather from the 1940's.

Next:

This week Officine Firenze officially becomes:

OFFICINE FIRENZE by Mario Paci

The latest line of Watch Straps for your Panerai that combines a touch of Vintage along side the evolution of the Panerai watch brand!

Also, this week marks a new beginning as we unveil www.mariopaci.com the website that will have all the Mario Paci editions, Officine Firenze by Mario Paci and leather accessories known as "Paci Pelle." Visit www.MarioPaci.com and make your vintage strap dreams come true.

Just the tip of the iceberg as we continue to make owning and wearing a Panerai watch more fun and exciting than it already is.

Thank you

Elliot

2007-02-26T00:38:00.000-06:00

Announcing some very exciting news!

For the first time since the release of the PAV straps by Panerai in the 1990's, Mario Paci is bringing to you the ORIGINAL Hides in a new Limited Edition Series made by the original strao maker for OEM Panerai straps from 1938 to 1997.

A New Series of straps using the Original Hides!

The Original PAV straps, made by the Cuoierie Meccaniche Brelli di Ciampi in Castelfiorentino, Italy, have been in the news lately with more talk than ever before. Their look, feel, softness and rarity have made them a "Holy Grail" watch strap for Panerai watches and their collectors.

The hides, the workmanship, the colors and the fit have made them the most exceptional straps for collectors and those who love all things about their Panerai watches.

Mario Paci and Fabrizio Ciampi are bringing back the Original hides used in the 1990's and do a remake of the entire series of straps known as the PAV for your Panerai watch.

You will have your choice of having your Pre-Vendome buckle or Vintage buckle sewn in, getting a sewn in Mario Paci Logo Buckle in Brushed or shiny, or getting the strap without a buckle for you to utilize your screw in OEM or favorite aftermarket buckle.

These straps come in 22/22, 24/24, 26/26 and 26/24 in the usual lengths.

Only Mario Paci could do it.

We thank you for making Mario Paci signature straps such a phenomenon.

Yes, they are the finest hand made straps in the world bringing back the history of our favorite watches.

Elliot