E's Blog about all things Panerai

E's notes on a scorecard about Panerai watches, Straps for Panerai, Life and then some.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

FAQ's...All you wanted to know about Panerai but didn't know where to ask!!!!!

OFFICINE PANERAI FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS--

1. Q: What is a C.O.S.C. Certificate?

A: "The C.O.S.C. Certificate is a certificate of accuracy issued by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (C.O.S.C.) to a movement which is certified as a chronometer (that is, a particularly accurate watch) by exceeding the standards set by the NIHS (Normes de l'Industrie Horlogere Suisse--Standards of the Swiss Watch Industry). To receive a chronometer certificate the movement udnergoes 15 days of tests to measure the accuracy and consistency of its timekeeping in various positions and conditions of use and at different temperatures. Only movements recording a variation of less than 10 seconds a day receive official certification from C.O.S.C." [from OP catalog]
Please see
http://www.fhs.ch/english and http://www.ozdoba.net/swisswatch/watchmain.html for more specifics.


2. Q: What is a “Chronometer?”

A: A chronometer is a timepiece/watch that has been “certified” by the COSC, a company that tests the uncased movements to make sure that the rate falls within their standards. The specifications for COSC are -4/+6 seconds/per day. This does, indeed, add up to a 10 second spectrum, but if it gained 10 seconds/per day, it would be out of COSC tolerance. Please see
http://www.fhs.ch/english and http://www.ozdoba.net/swisswatch/watchmain.html for more specifics.

3. Q: What is a “Chronograph?”

A: A chronograph is a complication used for measuring elapsed time, usually broken into 3 segments or dials—hours, minutes, seconds, tenths of a second. See F-series PAMs 162, 72, 74, 122, and 121.


4. Q: What are the differences between automatic movements and manual wind?

A: Automatic movements work with a rotor that oscillates as you move your arm/hand. This oscillation winds the watch and continues to give it power to tick. A manual watch is powered by having the springs wound every several days. For a Panera, the power reserve [the stored/wound power] is about 45 or 56 hours depending on the model year.

5. Q: What is a complication?

A: A complication is the term used to denote an added function beyond the original hours/minutes/seconds purpose of a watch. In essence, every feature you add to the movement makes the watch more “complicated” to construct, hence the term “complication.” The most basic complication could be a date feature on a watch, whereas a "grande complication," usually entails some combination of: split second chronograph, minute repeater, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar.

Some examples of complications in Panerai are the PAM 104, with both small seconds dial and the date window; a PAM 123, with small seconds dial, date window, and power reserve meter; a PAM 162 with its chronograph functions, as well as date and date adjuster mechanism—to name just a few.

6. Q: Why do I see Panerais referred to as a 112F, or 29A?

A: Each year of production/series has been given a letter to be easily identifiable, especially with models that were only made for a short time and have been since discontinued. It is important to note that even though a particular model is an F, for instance, the distribution of all of the units of that model may span several years. Someone could still have a BNIB F series watch in 2004/2005.

A=1998
B=1999
C=2000
D=2001
E=2002
F=2003

7. Q: What is meant by "Millesimation" and what's its importance to the Panerai brand?

A: Millesimation is the production numbers of Panerai watches within each year. These numbers have increased steadily with the popularity of the brand, but it should be noted that current (2003) levels of 35,000 watches per year is still miniscule compared to giants such as Rolex which produce over 800,000/year. Having low millesimation numbers is one of the contributing factors to the exclusive nature of the Panerai brand and is one of the influencing factors on the appreciating value of some pieces..

8. Q: What is a "calibre," and what's its importance or relevance to the Panerai movements?

A: A calibre is the name given to a specific movement used to power the watch. Many Panerai models use the same calibre, and the calibre name is often an arbitrary number imposed by Panerai. For example, a Calibre OP III is really a modified Valjoux 7750.

9. Q: What is the significance of the "AISI 316L" steel reference?

A:

10. Q: Is corundum the same as a "sapphire crystal?"

A: Yes.


11. Q: What is the significance of the Panerai Luminor Power Reserve as a horological complication?

A:

12. Q: In which direction should one wind a Panerai manual wind watch? An automatic movement?

A: Until you feel a resistance from your manual wind. An auto cannot be overwound.


13. Q: What is meant by a Destro, and what is its historical significance?

A: The “destro” is a left handed watch--that is, it is designed to be worn on the right hand (crown protector on the left side of the case instead of the right). "Right" is Destra / Destro in Italian. Some early Panerai watches were designed this way as it was customary for military divers to wear a compass (huge) on their left hand and their Panerai on their right hand. Destros have become a bit of a 'cult' collectors item among Panerai afficienados as they are relatively rare and quite distinctive!

The following are the model numbers and series that have been produced thus far:

PAM 22 A-D
PAM 26 A-B
PAM 56 C-D
PAM 115 E-F
PAM 117 E
PAM 123 E-F

14. Q: What are some of the best ways to change straps & buckles without scratching the case?

A: First of all--just be careful. Treat it like it cost you more than $3000+! Work slowly and keep the screwdriver in place by using your left thumb and index finger while turning the shaft of the driver with your right hand.

You can also place transparent tape over the screw holes, puncture the tape w/ the screwdriver head, and use as above.

15. Q: What's the best way to polish minor scratches on the case or buckle of a Panerai?

A: The “Cape Cod” Cloth is great for polished metal Panerai cases, but because the method of action is to remove small amounts of metal from around the offending area,it is not suggested that you do this weekly. It is also best used on a slight or "swirly" scratch mark. For a deep dent or gauge, send it back to Panerai HQ and let them do it right.

The cloth should only be used on polished stainless steel surfaces. It should not be used on brushed stainless steel or on titanium surfaces.

For titanium use an art eraser, or a VERY fine nail file. We’ve also had positive reports from people who have used Scotch Brite pads to refinish the Ti surface.

16. Q: What is the difference between a "tang/pin" buckle and the "deployant/folding clasp" buckle?

A: The Tang buckle is similar to a traditional men's belt buckle. It will often leave a crease in the strap, but it is closer to the original style of buckle used by the members of the Iitalian Navy.

The deployant, or folding clasp, will not leave as much of a mark in the strap and it less original. It also has a slight tendency to make the strap fit a bit loose, and so if you are struggling to keep your Panerai on in the first place either skip the deployant or hit the gym.

If you use the OEM (Panerai) deployant, you'll need to buy an OEM strap that's designed for use with the deployant (regular OEM straps as well as all of the aftermarket straps (TC, Dirks, Dons, ABP, etc) are too thick to fit the buckle). The OEM deployant straps are thinner at the buckle end to accomadate the deployant.

17. Q: How many notches are there in the crown, i.e. how to set the date, how to set the time?

A: If you can't read instructions, don't buy a $3000 watch. In all seriousness, the instructions for this will be in the manual, but most often a model with a date will be set by pulling the crown out to the first position (pull away from the case by one click) and the time will be set in the second position. Other features may vary, so do read the manual.

18. Q: Explain the waterproof aspects of the folding lever as part of the trademarked crown protector?

A: When the crown lever is depressed, the gaskets are compressed flush with the crown tubes. Keep in mind that while this was new technology in 1950, there have been many ways since then to waterproof a watch. This is currently more of a stylistic feature than a functional one, despite how well the locking lever does work.


19. Q: What is meant by the phrase Pre-Vendome?

A:

20. Q: What is the Vedome group, or Richmont?

A:

21. Q: Is the original warranty transferable?

A: Yes, the warranty is transferable. The warranty travels with the watch as long as it is in effect.

22. Q: What is the phone number of Panerai NY service center?

A: Panerai New York: (800) 628-8119.

Q: If I have to ship my watch to Panerai NY for servicing, how should I ship it, and should I include my warranty card with the watch?

A: If you have to ship your watch to Panerai NY, use USPS Registered (it's cheaper, insurance is included, and the custody chain is traceable); include a copy of the warranty; ship only the watch, not the original boxes (you might want to remove the strap as well). Include a cover letter that describes the watch in detail (the OP, BB and xxxx/XXXX numbers). The letter should describe the work that needs to be done. Be sure to include your contact information.

Ship to:
PISC
111 8th Ave, Suite 500
NY, NY 10011

Expect at least 7-10 work days for a written reply from Panerai. The reply will include an estimate for the work (assuming it's not covered under warranty), and a place to indicate whether you accept the estimate. If you do, and if a payment is required, fill in the space for credit card information and return the letter to Panerai. Obviously, this will take another 3 or 4 days. Approximate total time for this "acceptance" process can be two weeks. You can speed this up by calling the number listed above, selecting Option #3, and doing all of this over the phone. It'll save at least a week in the repair process.

23. Q: How much does it cost to replace a crystal on a PAM?

A: As of January 04, the cost of the crystal itself is $95, plus $400 service fee for installation and a complete servicing.

24. Q: What does OP stand for?

A: Officine Panerai


25. Q: How can I tell if my Panerai is genuine?

A:


26. Q: What causes the mysterious intermittent movement that occurs in my PAM, which has an automatic movement?

A: Most automatic Panerai watches use a Valjoux 7750 as the base movement. Although this movement is certainly robust and well suited to the purpose of filling out a huge hunk o' Panerai, it also carries with it a characteristic "wobble." There is nothing wrong with the watch, you are simply feeling the easily spun rotor go around. Many enjoy this “mystery movement,” as it reminds one that the watch is “alive” to some extent.

A: Yes, this is normal; it is a “service gap” used to remove the bezel with a tool. Note to self: don't try this at home!


27. Q: What is the correct pronunciation of Officine Panerai?

A: In italian, every letter is pronounced, so it would be something akin to "Oaf-Fi-Chi-Nay Pan-Er-Eye."

28. Q: Where does the term "panerisiti" come from?

A: The story goes that those that are passionate about ferrais are "ferraristi," so the logic took and now you have "panerisiti," those PASSIONATE [and then some] about all things Panerai.

29.Q: If all watches made by OP are Panerais, why are the individual reference numbers for Panerais called "PAMs?"

A: PAM stands for PAnerai Model.

30. Q: Can I fit a Panerai OEM ss/Ti bracelet to a model that originally takes a leather strap?

A: Yes, with some modification—you’ll need to purchase an “Avid” adapter to modify the linkage between the OEM case and the OEM bracelet.

31. Q: Who is Giampiero Bodino?

A: Mr. Bodino is a well-known designer from Milan who many claim is responsible for updating the look of Panerai and creating new models for the line. Mr. Bodino was the art director for OP. He is presently still working for the Richmont Group.

32. Q: What does Radiomir mean?

A: The Radiomir name came from the anti-aircraft gunner’s gauge that was mounted on the artillery piece that help sighting at night. Apparently, radiomirIt was a particular compound that product high luminosity for night fighting. The compound contsisted of phosphorescent zinc, sulphide, radium, bromide, and mesothorium.

33. Q: How do you synchronize your Panerai to atomic time--down to the seconds?

A: Wait until the watch is almost wound down, then pull the crown out and put a little back pressure (turn the crown counter-clockwise slightly), the second hand should stop. Hold it there until you've got it synched with the atomic clock.

34. Q: Where/how can I find an original Pre-V buckle?

A: As far as the buckle goes, you have a few options actually:

To get an OEM (as in it says Panerai and Panerai actually commissioned it) pre-V buckle, you'll have to find someone who's selling a Pre-V strap with a sewn-in buckle (they weren't removable at that point), or Panerai has just re-issued as the “vintage” strap calf straps with a Pre-V style buckle sewn in. As of January 2004, these have yet to hit authorized retailers en masse.

You could also buy a Dirks strap that will give you the same sewn-in look and feel as an original OEM Pre-V. The early Dirks featured the OP stamping.... you may be able to score one of this by posting a WTB on the Trading Forum. More recent Dirk's are sans the OP logo and instead are 'numbered'. When Panerai decided to resurrect the OP logo (pen/pusher tool and 195), Dirk was asked to discontinue the use of the OP logo on his buckles.

TimeConnection.biz also sells a Pre-V style buckle with screw in feature so it can be used w/ any strap. And lastly, you should also take a look at the DinoZei—the look here is very similar to the Pre-V look, as well they are historically significant to the Panerai “Pre-V” experience. The whole story of Dino Zei is well documented on www.meyersfinejewelry.com.

35. Q: Which Panerai models have an OP Logo on their casebacks?

A: All Pre-Vendome models have the OP Logo on the caseback, except for the regular “Slytech” models. Here is a complete listing:

5218-201/A SS Luminor
5218-202/A PVD Milatre Marina
5218-203/A PVD Luminor Marina
5218-201/A SlyTech Submersible prototype
5218-209 SS Luminor
5218-210 PVD Marina
5218-301/A Mare Nostrum


36. Q: Why is the Arabic numeral “6” different from one Pam to another?

A: The simple/short answer, with only a few exceptions, is that the “open 6” is representative of Historical Pams [112, 111, et al], whereas the “closed 6” is representative of Contemporary Pams [104, 123 et al].

Furthermore, the Historicals are open we presume because of the early usage of the sandwich dial that had actual cut outs to allow the luminous material to be visible. The 113 and other white dials are one exception to the Historical/Contemporary rule—there is not historical precedence for a white dial, and therefore we presume they all use the “closed 6.”


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